Summer Romance in bottles
La Mission Haut Brion 1958
Quite possibly a once in a lifetime experience and with no expectation whatsoever from a forgettable vintage, La Mission has yet again marveled us in making wonders from such poor raw material. Still in ruby color with some amber on the edge, its signature bouquet of roasted tobacco, smoke and barbarqued meat are heavenly and the palate is silky smooth with velvety tannins. It was standing toe to toe with the great Haut Brion 1959 (recorked bottle) when we were tasting both together. Truly memorable and unthinkable.
Vega Sicilia 2013 Release Unico Reserva Especial
(94/99/00)
A multi-vintage blend of different Unicos which are supposed to reflect the true character of Vega Sicilia, this Reserva can include grapes from vintages harvested more than 30 years apart. Fresh cream, coconut, strawberry jam gradually evolving into dark chocolate and mandarin skin, just an exotic bouquet quite similar to a great La Mouline from Guigal; rich and savory with plush texture, medium-bodied compared with the single vintage Unico which is more powerful, full-bodied and late maturing. Both are among the best wines in the world offering for the price of a first growth second label, not a bad deal.
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1985
This is one of the few truly profound clarets and possibly the single most iconic wine in Piedmont and Italy (only produced in outstanding vintages) though precociousness is not one of its many virtues. Nebbiolo grapes can be tricky with high acidity and tannins when young but they do provide complex flavors and aromas including dried rose pedals, cherries, truffles, tar, tobacco, and leather that are beautifully elegant with a core of super-sweet dark fruits when they approach their drinking window. 1985 has all of the above traits and is just about approaching its peak drinking window now and will most likely maintain or better its form for the next few decades.
Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
Philip Togni winery is basically a family-run affair with no compromise on quality and very modest release prices. Stylistically a "hybrid" wine between Napa and Bordeaux, this top offering from Napa is probably the most “un-Napa like” wines in that region. It provides a harmony between the exuberance, purity, and richness of fruit that Napa provides and a Bordeaux structure that is crafted for the long haul. Brilliant notes of cedar, spice box, cassis, smoke, and dark fruits not unlike a great first-growth Pauillac, this flagship offering of the Domaine has an extra dimension of flair, quiet power, and complexity that is simply quite remarkable.
Alvaro Palacios L'Ermita 1994
Rich, powerful with a touch of moderately spicy black fruits, candied cherries, mocha, and glycerin that explode on the palate; these Grenache juice from Priorat is getting well
integrated into a chewy, flamboyant, and well-balanced body over time but still with some tannins to be shed. Still not at its peak at almost 20 years of age, who says Grenache can't age gracefully?
